Mangalore - December 1, 2014
Our
next port was Mangalore. This was our
first port in southern India where we had the opportunity for an excursion,
having essentially missed Goa. The tour
we chose visited two Jain temples.
The
first thing our guide told us was that the name had just been changed to
Mangaluru, which is more like its original name before the Portuguese changed
it. The city is demographically diverse
and there are 4 major languages spoken with a local language called Tulu that
is unique to this area. Hindi is the national
language and Kannada is the language of this particular state in India. In the schools, classes are taught in Kannada
or English.
The
first things we noticed was that the city seemed much cleaner than the other
cities we had visited and our guide told us they had been making a major effort
to recycle (and teach the school children to do it) and generally clean up the
city. The city was named the 8th
cleanest city in the country.
Mangaluru
is at the junction of two rivers (Netravati
and Gurupura) and during the rainy season it can pour continuously for
days. The city has a tropical monsoon
climate and the monsoon season is from June to September when they can get up
to 157 inches of rain. This is the first
port where we really felt the humidity at 75% or more. December to March is supposed to be the best
weather with manageable temperatures and humidity.
The
Portuguese previously ruled this area, but it had gained independence in 1947
and all the Portuguese had left by the 1950s.
The
literacy rate is 90% and education is compulsory at least until the age of 14
and students attend school from 9-5 daily.
There are a lot of schools founded by missionaries (our guide attended a
Jesuit school) and they have three universities including a center for computer
education. The guide told us that the
company Infosys was started here back in the early 1980s.
Traditional
jobs are in the areas of agriculture and farming and rice is a staple with
coconut also used in most of their food.
Cashew processing is a major industry.
The unemployment rate is about 20%.
We passed by a thermal coal power plant, but the plant is designed with
the option for nuclear (we heard from new Canadian friends that their country
has agreed to provide India with uranium so they can increase the number of
their nuclear power plants). This is a
major coal-exporting region and we did see piles of coal waiting for loading at
the port where our ship was docked.
The
guide told us that the caste system still exists but is not as strong and the lower
castes are being educated. Generally you
are expected to still marry within your class with the majority of marriages
still “arranged.”
According
to our guide, religious tolerance is at its best there and there is less
fundamental Hinduism with the population here 70% Hindu, 20% Christian, 8%
Muslim and 2% Jains. (We read that “right wing” Hindus were trying to re-write
history so that their iconic Taj Mahal would not be attributed to Mughal/Muslim
origins.) Although the area only has 2%
Jains, this is a major center for that religion and its origins, one of the
oldest religions in the world. It has
three important beliefs, nonviolence (Ahimsa), non-absolutism, and
non-possessiveness. According to
Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jainism the nonviolence or
Ahimsa is strictly adhered to and is part of the “Jain identity.” Mahatma Ghandi practiced and preached
“ahimsa.”
Jains
extend their nonviolence to animals and are strict vegetarians and go out of
their way not to even hurt small insects. “Insects in the home area are often
escorted out instead of killed.” And
“strict Jains do not eat root vegetables such as potatoes, onions and garlic, because
tiny organismas are injured when the plant is pulled up…” (Wikipedia)
Their
2nd principle of non-absolutism is also very interesting as it
states that truth is dependent upon your point of view and they use the parable
of the blind men and the elephant as an example…where they are each put near a
different part of the elephant and describe it…with each of their descriptions
being true but all different. The
prepositions they use include: in some ways, it is; in some ways, it is not; in
some ways, it is, and it is not; etc.
They
don’t have “gods” per se, but they have Prophets who show the right path and
teachers who “talk” about the right path.
Temples are places of learning.
Meditation
plays a major role in this religion also, with breathing the right way helping
to manage and balance your thoughts and passions.
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| Nazi Swastika |
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| Hindu Swastika |
The
Swastika is prominent on many of the statues and some of the religious
buildings. In Hinduism, Buddhism and
Jainism it is a symbol of auspiciousness and as you can see from these two
pixs, it is slightly different from the Nazi iteration. Nevertheless, it was still startling to see
this symbol prominently displayed all over.
For
more on this interesting religion, refer to the Wikipedia link above.
Hindus
believe that Jainism is an offshoot of their religion (in reality, it may
predate much of Hinduism). Hindus have
gods, not prophets and not all Hindus are vegetarians. Both Hindus and Jains are cremated…as this
sends your body’s “elements” back into the earth.
Our
tour included visits to two temples (religious sites).
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| Bahubali |
The
first was located in the town of Karkala.
Its history dates back to the 10th century and black granite
is abundant in the area. The highlight
for this part of the tour was a short climb to the top of a small hill to view
the 41.5 ft granite statue of Bahubali which was consecrated in 1432. As you can see from the photo…the statue
currently has scaffolding surrounding it and this is in preparation for the
Mahamasthakabhisheka (ceremonial anointment – our guide referred to it as
“washing”) which takes place every 12 years and supposedly dates back to
“ancient” times. The ceremony will take
place in January and consists of pouring water over it, then milk and then
white rice powder. Next comes coconut
water and then sugarcane juice. Then
they cover it in liquid turmeric and red sandalwood past. Next is a combination of 8 scented substance,
followed by a shower of flower petals.
For more on this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karkala
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| Pillars upon pillars - thus 1000 |
The
second was in the town of Moodbidri, which is about an hour’s drive from
Mangalore. Jainism is still strongly
practiced in this area and it is home to “The Thousand Pillars Temple” (Saavira
Kambada Temple), which is a famous and holy shrine for Jains across the
country. The town actually has 18 Jain
temples but this is the most noted.
It
was built in 1430 but had additions made in 1962. It is known as the 1000
pillars due to the pillars upon pillars (see photo). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saavira_Kambada_Basadi
Along
the way we also had a stop at the Soans Farm.
This is a farm dating back to 1926 and is known for its innovative
agricultural techniques. There are two
brothers who are currently managing the farm and one of them is a botanist who
studied under a Fulbright grant in the US (in Montana) and the other is a fruit
technologist. The farm mainly grows
pineapples and we were greeted with delicious pineapple juice as we
arrived.
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| Peppercorns growing |
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| Giant Burma Bamboo |
There
is a great diversity of plants growing on the farm and we were given a
tour…from giant bamboo (see picture) to many fruits and spices including pepper
and nutmeg.
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