At Sea - Day 15-16 - July 16-17, 2023
Today we are at sea on our way from Svalbard to Iceland. As I have mentioned in previous posts, we have had unusually nice weather, mostly sunny after we left Bergen. But, as on our day at sea on the way to Svalbard, we are again fogged in.
Later today we will pass by Jan Mayen Island which is a Norwegian volcanic island with the most northern active volcano. It has no permanent population other than employees of the Norwegian Armed Forces and the Norwegian Meteorological Institute and occasional research scientists. You have to get special permission from the Norwegian government to visit. It's not only situated above a mid-Atlantic ridge "hot spot" (hence the volcano) but it's also uniquely position as the only northern hemisphere site where a cold southbound oceanic current (Arctic/Greenland) collides with a warm northbound current (Gulf Stream). Apart from reading more about this island at the link above, you can view its impressively wild and scenic environment in pictures posted by Norwegian scientists.
I have gathered a number of interesting facts in our travels so far, that I haven't previously included.
1. There is a rumor that you are not allowed to die in Svalbard...which isn't true but you can't be buried in Svalbard due to the permafrost. Bodies don't decompose and will often rise to the surface...so no one has been buried there in 70 years. Bodies must be flown or shipped to the mainland. Read more in this interesting Atlantic Magazine article which includes a video that I am currently unable to watch.
2. Svalbard means "cold coast."
3. Buildings in Longyearbyen (and Svalbard generally) are built on stilts. The land is permafrost which means that it is frozen almost all year round. In Longyearbyen the permafrost ranges from 10-40 meters deep with an layer which melts each summer when the temperatures rise above freezing. The stilts help protect the buildings from sinking and flooding.
4. Longyearbyen is home to the northernmost gourmet restaurant - Huset. It has one of Scandinavia's largest wine cellars with over 15,000 bottles of wine. Its food focuses on nordic flavors and local ingredients...nope we didn't eat there. 😧
5. Longyearbyen is home to the world's most northern fuel station...
6. All across Norway there is the "right to roam" law which includes all uncultivated land...this includes mountains, rivers, fields, forests, lakes, etc. no matter who owns it. "Show due care and consideration to the countryside, private property and other walkers. Do not cause any damage, and leave the countryside as you would like to find it." More Info here You can't camp closer than 150 meters (~500 ft) from any inhabited house or cottage.
7. Northern Norway is known for its delicious strawberries. They have 24 hour sun to grow in summer. The right to roam law allows you to pick berries, fungi, roots of wild herbs except for protected species...even if they are on private property. But a key exception is cloudberries which due to their rarity are excluded from the "right to roam" law. They are often referred to as Arctic Gold. We have not tasted them. They are expensive, impossible to cultivate, and hard to find in the wild.
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| Cloudberries |
8. Sailors feared scurvy which claimed many lives on land and at sea, but experience had shown that with jars of preserved cloudberries scurvy can be completely avoided.
9. Svalbard has prohibited the owning of cats as they are too much of a danger to the Arctic bird population.
10. Reindeer often wander through Longyearbyen and don't seem to be bothered by people. Unfortunately we didn't see any wandering in town.
11. About 3000 polar bears live around Svalbard which is why it is required to carry (or accompany someone who is carrying and certified for polar bear defense) a rifle whenever leaving the established settlements. However, you are not allowed to bring rifles into buildings. Some buildings have signs at the door stating that all polar bears inside the shop are dead so please leave your rifle with staff.
12. Snowmobiles (or "snow scooters" as they are called in Svalbard) are essential in the winter months. There are 3400 snowmobiles for Longyearbyen's 1600 residents.
13. Longyearbyen was founded by an American businessman named John Munro Longyearbyen who had mining interests. He is descended from the same Scottish prisoner sent to America as I am...I found his family tree online.
14. The Svalbard Treaty was signed in 1920. It states that Norway has absolute and unrestricted sovereignty over Svalbard. However, Norway is obliged to give the citizens and companies of the signatory nations equal rights in certain areas (the US is one of the signatory nations):
- Entrance to and residence in Svalbard
- Fishing, hunting and trapping
- Maritime, industrial, mining and commercial activities
- Acquisition and utilization of property and mineral rights
Thus if US politics or the upcoming elections aren't to your liking...come and live in Svalbard! But remember that in Longyearbyen, Midnight Sun last from April 20th to August 23rd and the Polar nights (24 hours of darkness) lasts from October 26th to February 15th...so be prepared.
15. In the Svalbard Museum I found some interesting quotes (comments) about the area:
- "The streets in Longyearbyen have no names, they have numbers - grown men do not build houses in streets that are named Blueberry Road or Teddy Bear Yard." (Peter Adams)
- "This place is abandoned by God and ought to have been abandoned a long time ago by mankind as well." (unknown)
- "Stone after stone, I am now seeing stones in my sleep and when I am awake.They are going to get on my nerves, I can feel it. This stony land, the total gigantic barrenness is going to haunt me as a bad dream." (Christiane Ritter)
- "Thousands of tired, stressed, civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home, that wilderness is a necessity." (Svalbard Wildlife Service)
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