Crete to the South from Heraklion

Crete to the South from Heraklion - October 24, 2023

October 29, 2023

Our guide today (Rania) and driver (Anthony) picked us up at 8:30 AM. We headed south with our first stop in the very small village of Agrio Myronae...named after Saint Myron.

Village of Agrio Myronae

Church of Agrio Myronae

Just below the church, down a series of steps is the Holy Cell of the Saint, a natural cave in the basalt rock, from which healing water gushes.

Next we visited the ancient city of Gortyn. The city has a rich mythological and religious tradition associated with many of the Greek gods including, Zeus, Europa and Demeter, but also major figures of Christianity including the apostles Paul and Titus.

Gortyn reached its peak during the Roman period when it was the capital of Crete. It was also the first city in Crete to accept Christianity. It maintained its glory until 828 AD when it was occupied and destroyed by the Saracens.

Theatre in Gortyn

It is famous for the Law Code of Gortyn which was written in 450 BC, it represents the legal code of the city and is inscribed on large limestone panels.

"The code deals with such matters as disputed ownership of slaves, rape and adultery, the rights of a wife when divorced or a widow, the custody of children born after divorce, inheritance, sale and mortgaging of property, ransom, children of mixed (slave, free and foreign) marriages and adoption. The code makes legal distinctions between different social classes. Free, serf, slave and foreigner social statuses are recognized within the document." (Wikipedia)

After our visit to Gortyn we headed to a local organic and sustainably run winery in the mountains, at an elevation just above 1000 ft. The Zacharioudakis winery is relatively new and is a family run business. The vineyards are next to the winery and on land that has belonged to the family for many years. There were pictures showing how they had to hack into the hillsides to make the terraces for the grape vines. They produce a number of wines. We tasted two whites and a red. We bought one bottle to take to Chania with us.

View from the Zacharioudakis winery

After our winery visit we headed to another one of the famous Minoan palaces....Phaistos. Phaistos was originally built around 1900 BC. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1700 BC. A new palace was built on top of the original one and it lasted until 1450 BC. Many artifacts were also recovered here during the excavations, now mostly on display in the Heraklion Archeological Museum.

This site has not been reconstructed like Knossos, but you can see areas including the steps and the courtyard (in the upper right) that are very well preserved.

Phaistos

We continued south to the town of Matala Beach famous for its hippie days in the 1960s and early 1970s. "Famous people from the Hippy era spent time in Crete at the Matala Caves including Bob Dylan, Joan Baes, Janis Joplin and Cat Stevens. The most famous hippie who lived here was Joni Mitchell. Inspired by Matala, Joni Mitchell wrote her 1971 song “Carey” while living here. Carey was a guy who Joni lived with while there."

Some of the lyrics to the song are below. As Matala is on the southern coast of Crete, it is only 187 miles north of Africa.

Lyrics

The wind is in from AfricaLast night I couldn't sleepOh, you know it sure is hard to leave here, CareyBut it's really not my homeMy fingernails are filthyI got beach tar on my feetAnd I miss my clean white linenAnd my fancy French cologne

Oh Carey, get out your cane (Carey, get out your cane)And I'll put on some silver (I'll put on some silver)Oh, you're a mean old DaddyBut I like you fine

Come on down to the Mermaid Café, and I willBuy you a bottle of wineAnd we'll laugh and toast to nothingAnd smash our empty glasses downLet's have a round for these freaks and these soldiersA round for these friends of mineLet's have another round for the bright red devilWho keeps me in this tourist town