Biarritz (Saint-Jean-de-Luz), France - Visit to Bayonne - May 17, 2025

Today our ship docked in the city of Biarritz (Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France.  Our tour took us to Bayonne, France.  This charming Basque city of approximately 35,000 winter residents, forms part of a larger metropolitan area of around 150,000 people when combined with neighboring Anglet and Biarritz. 

Our guide talked about the  "Pirate Coast" between Bayonne and the Spanish frontier that reflects the region's complex maritime history. This area has always been strategically crucial due to its position at the confluence of the Adour and Nive rivers, a stone's throw from the ocean, not far from the Pyrenees and on the road to Spain.

During our visit, we learned about Bayonne's three main districts:

Grand Bayonne - The historic heart of the city where we saw the impressive Gothic cathedral built on Roman foundations. This area represents the oldest settlement, originally established by the Romans on solid stone foundations for strategic purposes.

Petit Bayonne - Located across the Adour River, this district once housed medieval shipyards and has now transformed into the university quarter, showcasing the city's evolution from maritime commerce to education.

The Modern District - The newer section that expanded after the 19th century as the city grew beyond its original medieval boundaries.

Our guide explained Bayonne's strategic military importance is deeply rooted in its location.  The city was built on the remains of the 4th century Roman Castrum Lapurdum.  The city was once completely encircled by fortress walls with 25 defensive towers. We saw some of the five remaining towers that survive today, remnants of this once-formidable defensive system that were discovered during apartment renovations. The contrast between ancient stones and renovated white stones provided a tangible connection to the city's 1,600-year history.  Our guide mentioned that the famous military engineer Vauban came to renovate the fortifications in the 17th century under Louis XIV, finalizing their current configuration as part of the city's comprehensive defensive system. 

The magnificent Gothic cathedral is particularly significant. Construction began in 1213, but after a devastating fire in 1258 destroyed half the city and part of the cathedral's choir, an expert architect in Gothic techniques was brought in to rebuild it. The cathedral draws inspiration from Reims for its plans and choir, and from Soissons for its ambulatory and chapels. Since 1998, it has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the "Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle en France" reflecting its importance as a major stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.

The 19th-century spires we saw were added during a major restoration project, and the keystones are adorned with English leopards, testimony to Bayonne's three-century attachment to the English crown. 

Bayonne's rich cultural legacy extends beyond its architecture. The city became France's chocolate capital in 1609 when Jewish Portuguese immigrants fleeing the Spanish Inquisition brought their chocolate-making expertise from the New World. The family business of Cazenave, established in 1854, still imports cacao beans from Venezuela, Costa Rica, and Trinidad, continuing the traditional roasting and crushing methods.

Of course we couldn't pass to purchase some chocolate here.

The Bayonne area is at the center of a rich textile heritage, particularly renowned for Basque linen production. Basque textile expertise has been deeply rooted in local culture for many years, from household linen and espadrilles to fabric manufacturing and wool. Notably, Basque linens now has its own geographical origin label, enabling certification that the product is indeed made in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques region.  And, of course, we visited one of the linen shops!

It was a very interesting tour and perfectly showcased how Bayonne seamlessly blends its Roman origins, medieval grandeur, English period, French integration, and distinctive Basque culture into a living heritage.