Bilbao, Spain - May 16, 2025

 

Our ship docked in Bilbao, Spain at 7:00 AM.  This is my first visit to Basque Country.  Our next port will be in the French portion of Basque Country. Our excursion to San Sebastián took us inland due to coastal mountain ranges and then back along the coast as you can see from the map above. 

A bit of an aside on Basque Country... 

The Basque Country is a unique cultural and linguistic region straddling the Pyrenees Mountains between France and Spain, with a rich history spanning thousands of years.

The Basque people are among Europe's oldest ethnic groups, with origins that predate Indo-European migrations. Their language, Euskera (Basque), is a language isolate with no known linguistic relatives, making it one of the world's most ancient surviving languages. Archaeological evidence suggests Basque ancestors have inhabited this region for at least 7,000 years.

During the medieval period, Basque territories developed a system of local laws called "fueros" that granted them significant autonomy. These charters allowed Basques to maintain their own legal systems, tax collection methods, and military obligations while remaining nominally under Spanish or French rule. The fueros became central to Basque identity and their relationship with central governments.

The Basque Country consists of seven historic provinces: four in Spain (Álava, Gipuzkoa, Bizkaia, and Navarre) and three in France (Labourd, Soule, and Lower Navarre). The Spanish Basque provinces form two autonomous communities - the Basque Autonomous Community and Navarre - while the French provinces are part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region.
Economic Development

Historically, Basques were renowned as skilled navigators, whalers, and traders. They played crucial roles in Spanish colonial expeditions and established important trade networks. During the 19th and 20th centuries, the region industrialized rapidly, particularly around Bilbao, becoming Spain's industrial heartland with steel, shipbuilding, and manufacturing industries.

The 19th century saw the rise of Basque nationalism. This movement sought to preserve Basque language, culture, and political autonomy. The Spanish Civil War and Franco dictatorship (1939-1975) brought severe repression of Basque culture and language, which were banned from public use.

Following Spain's transition to democracy after 1975, the Basque Country regained significant autonomy. Today, it enjoys considerable self-governance, including tax collection powers (except in customs and some national taxes), its own parliament, and co-official status for the Basque language alongside Spanish.

The Basque Flag

Modern Basque culture is characterized by distinctive architecture, cuisine (including pintxos and Michelin-starred restaurants), traditional sports like pelota, and cultural festivals. Cities like Bilbao have undergone remarkable urban renewal, exemplified by the iconic Guggenheim Museum, while maintaining their cultural heritage.

The Basque Country remains one of Europe's most economically prosperous regions while successfully preserving its unique cultural identity in an increasingly globalized world.

Continuing with our tour...

On our way to San Sebastián, we passed through forests and by picturesque farms typical of the region.

Our guide explained how San Sebastián transformed from a regular city into Spain's premier tourist destination. The turning point came when the royal family began visiting and dining here. This royal patronage attracted Spain's wealthy elite and aristocracy, who built their palaces and grand houses throughout the city.

San Sebastián became a tourist city—but not for mass tourism. Instead, it developed as an exclusive, high-end destination. While today the city welcomes many more visitors and tourism has become more generalized, it still maintains its reputation as a somewhat expensive and upscale destination.

La Concha beach and bay

The guide highlighted La Concha beach and bay as the city's crown jewel. "La Concha" means "shell" in Spanish, and our guide described it as a beautiful bay that serves as the main attraction. The scenic beauty of this shell-shaped bay clearly makes it the heart of San Sebastián's appeal.

We learned about the challenges of urban living in San Sebastián. A 300-square-foot apartment for two people or a small family is considered a nice size here—much smaller than what Americans are typically accustomed to. The guide explained that space is extremely scarce in desirable areas like San Sebastián, making real estate very expensive.

Unlike the United States, where houses with yards and gardens are common, apartment living is the norm in the Basque Country's major cities. While there are cheaper areas elsewhere in Spain, prime locations like San Sebastián command premium prices due to high demand and limited space.

The Urumea River flows through the city to the ocean. However, it is quite shallow and doesn't support navigation, which explains why San Sebastián never developed a major industrial port. 

The bus parked at the local bus station and we walked about .5 miles along to the river to the "old" section.  We walked with the guide through this historic section and then had free time.

Fran and I ate at a local restaurant and enjoyed tapas and a glass of the local wine.

 

We headed back to the bus and continued on to Hondarribia, an historic fortified town strategically located on the border with France right at the mouth of the Bidasoa River.  

 town's strategic location has shaped its entire history. Founded in the 10th century, Hondarribia became a crucial frontier fortress protecting the Spanish kingdoms from French invasions. Its position controlling access between Spain and France made it one of the most contested places in Europe for centuries.

The medieval period saw Hondarribia develop as a fishing and trading port, with its economy built around maritime activities and cross-border commerce. The town received its charter in 1203 from King Alfonso VIII of Castile, which granted it important trading privileges and helped establish its role as a commercial hub.

Perhaps most famously, Hondarribia endured a legendary siege in 1638 during the Thirty Years' War. French forces under the Prince de Condé besieged the town for 69 days, but the residents - including many women who took up arms - successfully defended their walls. This heroic defense is still celebrated annually during the Alarde festival, where townspeople dress in period military uniforms to commemorate the victory.

Castle of Carlos V - you can see shell marks in the walls

The 18th and 19th centuries brought relative peace, allowing Hondarribia to flourish as a summer resort destination. The town's beautiful beaches and pleasant climate attracted Spanish royalty and aristocracy, earning it the nickname "the Biarritz of Spain."

The old quarter, known as the Parte Vieja, remains remarkably well-preserved today. Its cobblestone streets, medieval walls, and traditional Basque architecture - including colorful houses with wooden balconies (see the picture on the left) - make it one of the most picturesque towns in the Basque Country. The town must balance its role as a living community with its status as a major tourist destination, maintaining its authentic character while welcoming visitors from around the world.