June 7, 2025 - Potsdam - Berlin Trip - Day 4

Today during our early hotel breakfast before taking a train back down to the Potsdam area, I almost choked on my croissant when suddenly standing before me (+ Connie, Richard and Christine) was my old Basel and UCSF buddy Christoph Rochlitz and his wife Sabine, who had driven 9+ hours up from Basel to surprise us (while still limping 5 weeks after his total knee replacement)! The Herrmanns were complicit in this secret ambush, as Christoph and Sabine were going to join us on our planned boat trip later in the day.  Needless to say we spent a couple of hours catching up with each other.  

After breakfast it was decided that Chris and I would drive with Christoph and Sabine to Potsdam, while Christine and Richard retraced our train trip from yesterday and we would all meet at the marina in Potsdam.

As our boat trip wasn't scheduled until 1:30 PM, at Christoph's suggestion we went to visit the iconic Tempelhof Airfield, one of Berlin's most historically significant and complex sites. This former airport, with its massive Nazi-era terminal building, carries the weight of a dark and layered history.

During World War II, Tempelhof served not only as an airport but also housed a forced labor camp where thousands of prisoners of war, foreign workers, and concentration camp prisoners were compelled to work under brutal conditions. These forced laborers were used to construct aircraft and maintain airport operations for the Nazi war effort. The site represents one of the many locations where the Nazi regime exploited human beings as slave labor, a sobering reminder of the systematic cruelty that characterized this period.

After the war, Tempelhof took on an entirely different historical significance when it became the hub for the Berlin Airlift (1948-1949). Allied forces used this same airfield to fly in supplies to sustain West Berlin during the Soviet blockade, transforming it from a symbol of oppression into one of hope and international solidarity.

Today, Tempelhof Field remains one of Berlin's most contentious urban planning issues. Since the airport's closure in 2008, the 386-hectare site has become a beloved public park, but it's also prime real estate in a city facing a severe housing crisis.

The city government has repeatedly proposed various development plans, including:

• Building thousands of new housing units to address Berlin's accommodation shortage
• Creating mixed-use developments combining residential, commercial, and recreational spaces
• Maintaining portions for refugee housing 

However, these proposals face fierce opposition from citizens who view the open space as irreplaceable. In 2014, Berliners voted in a referendum to keep the field free from development, with the slogan "100% Tempelhofer Feld" winning decisively. This citizen initiative argued that the open space provides unique recreational opportunities and serves as the "lungs" of the city.

The debate reflects broader tensions in Berlin between:

• Housing affordability and urban density needs
• Preservation of public green space and quality of life
• Historical memory and appropriate use of significant sites
• Democratic participation versus municipal planning authority

The ongoing controversy demonstrates how historical sites can become focal points for contemporary urban challenges. 

Refugee camp in the back on the left.

Currently, besides the park, the field hosts a refugee camp, a community garden and what appeared to be a circus (maybe only temporary) and proof that art comes in many forms.

The airfield's layered history - from forced labor camp to lifeline during the blockade to public space resonated deeply with our broader discussions about German history, the importance of remembering difficult truths, and learning from the past.

After our airfield visit, we started our drive to Potsdam and arrived there about 1:00 PM to meet Christine and Richard.

Our 2-hour scenic boat tour through the seven lakes started at Kleiner Wannsee and proceeded up Pohlesee, Stölpchensee, Griebnitzsee, Glienicker Lake via the River Havel and back to Wannsee (see map on the right). 

The journey took us past beautiful lakeside properties with private boat houses and docks, giving us glimpses of how the wealthy live along Berlin's water systems.

We observed the mix of modern and traditional architecture, noting how some areas had been developed since German reunification.

Additionally, we enjoyed views of a few UNESCO world heritage sites along the route, among them Babelsberg Palace, Glienicke Hunting Lodge, and Cecilienhof Palace (where the Potsdam Conference was held). 

Babelsberg Palace

Babelsberg Palace was built in 1833 as a summer residence for Crown Prince William – later Emperor William I.

The tour also passed Glienicker Brücke, which became famous as a place for spy exchange during the Cold War, as featured in the film "Bridge of Spies".

We passed through areas that were once divided by the East-West border, and we saw remnants of the Berlin Wall along our route.

One of the highlights, was Irina waving to us from her balcony.  When we had dinner with her the night before, she told us to let her know when we would be passing and she would come out and wave to us.

The ride started out sunny and quite warm, but toward the end of the boat ride, the wind started blowing, the clouds rolled in and then the rain poured down.  We headed down below and enjoyed the remaining part of the ride from inside.

At this point, Christine and Richard headed back to Berlin and Christoph and Sabine drove us to his cousin's house southeast of Berlin. Clemens and Alexa have a beautiful property on another one of Berlin's lakes.  They also own a house in Sicily where they spend the majority of their time.

This home has a fascinating history - they discovered after purchasing it that filmmaker Leni Riefenstahl had grown up there.  We enjoyed looking through two of her published photo exhibit books. 

Leni Riefenstahl (1902-2003) was a German filmmaker, photographer, and actress who became one of the most controversial figures in cinema history due to her association with Nazi Germany.

Riefenstahl began as a dancer and actress in the 1920s, appearing in several "mountain films" - a popular German genre featuring dramatic Alpine landscapes. She transitioned to directing with "The Blue Light" (1932), which she also starred in and co-produced.

Her most famous and notorious works were created during the Nazi era:

•  "Triumph of the Will" (1935) - documented the 1934 Nuremberg Rally and is considered one of the most powerful propaganda films ever made

•  "Olympia" (1938) - a two-part documentary about the 1936 Berlin Olympics that pioneered many cinematographic techniques still used today

These films showcased groundbreaking camera work, editing techniques, and visual compositions that influenced filmmaking for decades. However, they also served as effective propaganda tools for the Nazi regime.

After World War II, Riefenstahl faced denazification proceedings and was imprisoned by the Allies. She consistently maintained that she was an artist, not a Nazi, and claimed ignorance of the Holocaust. She was eventually cleared of major charges but remained a controversial figure.

In her later years, she worked as a photographer, documenting the Nuba people of Sudan and underwater marine life. She continued working well into her 90s and lived to be 101.

Riefenstahl's work presents a complex legacy - technically innovative and artistically influential, yet inextricably linked to Nazi propaganda. Film scholars and historians continue to debate how to evaluate her contributions to cinema given this historical context.
For more information about her, click HERE

Clemens prepared a wonderful dinner that showcased both his cooking talents and his experiences living between Germany and Sicily. The meal featured Mediterranean influences, reflecting his deep connection to his Sicilian property where he spends several months each year.

During dinner, Clemens shared stories about learning to cook from local Sicilian neighbors, particularly describing how he would approach Camille, a local woman, whenever he encountered unfamiliar ingredients or cooking techniques. "When I do not know how to do something, I go to Camille," he explained, illustrating how he's embraced the Italian tradition of learning from experienced local cooks rather than relying solely on cookbooks.

His stories painted a picture of the collaborative cooking culture in Sicily, where neighbors readily share knowledge about preparing seasonal specialties - from the proper way to handle various Mediterranean vegetables to the techniques for preparing fresh seafood. 

The dinner itself was a delightful blend of flavors, and Clemens took obvious pleasure in both the cooking and the sharing of food stories. His enthusiasm for Sicilian cuisine and culture added another layer to the day's rich tapestry of travel experiences and cultural exchange.

The meal concluded with a delicious "strawberry mess" - a variation of the traditional English Eton mess featuring strawberries, meringue, and cream, though Clemens had added his own touch with ice cream. Despite some initial concerns about presentation, the dessert was universally praised and perfectly captured the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere of the gathering.

We enjoyed wide-ranging discussions at dinner from travel and wildlife to food ethics and technology. Despite attempts to avoid the topic, political discussions naturally arose, covering concerns about nationalism, polarization, and the challenges of discerning truth in today's media landscape. We reflected on historical parallels and the importance of critical thinking. This led an interesting discussion about how the Nazi era is taught in German schools and the importance of learning from history.

Our day perfectly captured the essence of meaningful travel - not just seeing new places, but engaging in the kind of deep, wide-ranging conversations that deepen friendships and create lasting memories while exploring both local culture and universal human experiences.